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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.